PEPTIDES, COMPOSITIONS COMPRISING THEM AND USES IN PARTICULAR COSMETIC USES

摘要

The peptides have the general following formula: X–Pro*–Pro*–Xaa–Y in which: •Xaa is selected from Leucine (Leu, L), Arginine(Arg, R), Lysine (Lys, K), Alanine (Ala, A), Serine (Ser, S), and Aspartic acid (Asp, D); •At the N terminal end of the peptide, X is selected from H, -CO-R1 and -SO2-R1; •At the C terminal end of the peptide, Y is selected from OH, OR1, NH2, NHR1 and NR1R2;•R1and R2 are, independantly from each other, selected from an alkyle, aryle, aralkyle, alkylaryl, alkoxy and aryloxy group, that can be linear, branched, cyclic, poly- cyclic, non-saturated, hydroxylated, carbonylated, phosphorylated and/or sulfured, and which skeletum can comprise an heteroatom, in particular an O, S and/or N atom; •Pro* correspond to a Proline, ananalogue or derivative thereof; •if X is H then Y is selected from OR1, NH2, NHR1 and NR1R2, and if Y is OH then X is -CO-or -SO2-R1; and •the peptide hypoxanthine-Pro-Pro-Arg being excluded. The invention provides the use of the peptides of above formula I to stimulate the synthesis of the molecules constituting the dermal extracellular matrix, including collagen I and IV and elastin. A cosmetic treatment according to the invention includes anti-aging, anti-wrinkles, improving mechanical properties of the skin, firmness/tone/elasticity/suppelness/flexibility, increasing density and volume of the skin, restructuring effect, fighting stretch marks, improving skin barrier and/or skin hydration.