| 主权项 |
1. A cosmetic process for detoxifying the skin and/or for combating cutaneous aging, comprising the topical application on the skin of a composition that comprises at least one activator of the autophagy of cells of the skin,
said cutaneous cell autophagy activator being selected based on the results of a test executed in vitro on a culture of cutaneous cells, the test comprising: cultivating cutaneous cells, keratinocytes or fibroblasts with a suitable culture medium; removing the culture medium and replacing the medium with a culture medium comprising a stress agent that induces a nutritive and/or oxidative stress; providing an active ingredient to be tested, said ingredient originating from a plant, algae or yeast; removing the culture medium comprising the stress agent and replacing the medium with a culture medium comprising the active ingredient; analyzing the expression of at least one of MAP-LC3, ATG5-12, phosphorylated mTOR, phosphorylated protein p53, DRAM and AMPK by the cultured cutaneous cells; comparing the results of said analysis with results obtained on a control culture of the cutaneous cells that are not treated with the active ingredient; and selecting an active ingredient that has at least one of the following activities: a stimulating activity on expression of MAP-LC3, a stimulating activity on expression of ATG5-12, a stimulating activity on expression of phosphorylated protein p53, a stimulating activity on expression of DRAM, a stimulating activity on expression of AMPK, and an inhibiting activity on expression of phosphorylated mTOR. |
