| 摘要 |
FIELD: personal use articles. ^ SUBSTANCE: invention relates to a garment industry, namely, the ways of constructing of pattern of raglan sleeves. The essence of the proposed invention consists in the method of constructing of pattern of raglan sleeves performed using segments values from the base of back-piece and forepart, drawing two mutually perpendicular horizontal and vertical lines as the beginning. From the point of intersection of the lines to the point of intersection with the vertical line an arc is to be drawn with a radius equal to the sleeve head, then from the resulting intersection point symmetrically segments are drawn on both sides of the arc that will determine volume of raglan sleeve on top and an equal 1.0-3.0 cm, as a result there will be two points corresponding to the points of the sleeve head. From the sleeve head points symmetrically on both sides of the vertical line a mark is drawn on the horizontal line with radii equal to the length of the armhole of back-piece and forepart respectively, and the resulting points are connected with straight lines with points of the sleeve head. From the points of the sleeve head segments are drawn on the lines drawn before, these segments are equal to the length of the armhole of back-piece and forepart and are drawn till the control points on the drawing of the bases of back-piece and forepart respectively, then from the resulting points perpendiculars are drawn up till the straight lines equal to the value of overtravel of raglan sleeves to the back-piece and forepart and getting the front and back raglan sleeves control points. After this, height points of the sleeve head arcs are drawn up and their radii are equal to the length of the shoulder line, then on the resulting arcs are drawn from the points of intersections with perpendiculars, the marks radii are equal to the length of the segments drawn from the control points on the armholes of back-piece and forepart till the points determining the width of the neck of back-piece and forepart as a result there are points corresponding to the points of the base of neck on the shoulder line, which with straight lines are connected with height points of the sleeve head, from these points arcs with radii equal to the width of the raglan sleeve on the neck line. Then from height points of the sleeve head on the drawn arcs marks are drawn with radii equal to distances from the shoulder points of back-piece and forepart till the points defining the width of the raglan sleeve on neck line on the drawing of back-piece and forepart the resulting points are connected to the points of the base of neck on the shoulder line and the points of intersections with perpendiculars. Further forming with a curve line of raglan sleeve head from the side of back-piece and forepart. The curve is drawn through the back and front control points of the sleeve with deflections equal to deflection of armholes of back-piece and forepart for raglan sleeve and completing the bottom part, raglan sleeve is obtained. The volume of raglan sleeves is reached using the pockets formed by the lines of division, located from the bottom of the sleeve till lines connecting the height points of the sleeve head with the points that define the width of the sleeve under the armholes parallel to the vertical line and then parallel to the lines connecting height points of the sleeve head with to the points of the base of neck on the shoulder line, with the possibility of their opening after the cutting on the value of tucks opening. ^ EFFECT: simplified method of constructing of raglan sleeves, reducing time to draw raglan sleeve, raglan sleeves without the upper seam to get a new three-dimensional shape raglan sleeves, satisfying the modern fashion trends. ^ 5 dwg |
