| 摘要 |
Cosmetic use of a urea compound (I) in a composition (A) comprising a medium, as an agent for stimulating the exfoliation of skin and/or mucous membranes. Cosmetic use of a urea compound (I) of formula (R1R2N-CO-NR3R4) in a composition (A) comprising a medium, as an agent for stimulating the exfoliation of skin and/or mucous membranes. R1-R4 : H, 1-4C alkyl or 2-6C hydroxy alkyl (containing 1-5 OH). Provided that at least one of R1-R4 is hydroxyalkyl. Independent claims are included for: (1) a process of cosmetic treatment of the keratinous tissues, comprising applying a first component containing (I) and a second component containing an agent e.g. protease, lipase and glycosidase, where the two components are applied simultaneously, together or sequentially to the skin, mucous membranes or superficial body growths; (2) a cosmetic agent in the form of kit comprising the first component containing (I) and the second component containing e.g. protease, lipase and glycosidase; (3) a cosmetic unit comprising a container delimited with a compartment, where the container is closed by a closing element and the composition is disposed inside the compartment; and (4) a process of selection of exfoliating compounds comprising (a) preparing a stratum corneum extract containing acid proteases; (b) mixing a marked proteinic substrate with the compound to be tested at different concentrations, and with a proteolytic urea at one concentration, to obtain mixtures comprising the compound to be tested or the urea; (c) contacting the obtained extract fractions from (a) with the various obtained mixtures from (b) to obtain reaction mixtures comprising the compound to be tested or the urea, or with a marked casein substrate to obtain a control; and (d) after a time of incubation, comparing proteolysis reaction in the various reaction mixtures and selecting the compound in which the intensity of proteolysis is higher than the one of the control. ACTIVITY : Antipsoriatic; Dermatological; Antiseborrheic. MECHANISM OF ACTION : Corneodesmosin degradation stimulator. The activation of acid proteases of stratum corneum by N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-urea (Ia) was evaluated using Bodipyfl-casein that liberates fluorescent substance when hydrolyzed. (Ia) Showed high proteolysis activity. |
