Verfahren zur Herstellung eines in einer Richtung elastisch dehnbaren Gewebes

摘要

983,968. Woven stretch fabrics; finishing fabrics. IMPERIAL CHEMICAL INDUSTRIES Ltd. Nov. 21, 1963 [Nov. 30,1962], No. 45345/62. Headings D1K and D1S. Woven fabric has 10-30% stretch imparted to it in one direction by stretching it in the other direction to straighten the yarns, thereby increasing the crimp of the yarns in the first direction; the fabric is heat-set and cooled before removing the stretching force. The yarns whose crimp is increased comprise synthetic thermoplastic fibres having a glass-to-rubber transition temperature above 80‹C. when wet, for example polyethylene terephthalate or a copolymer thereof with up to 10% of another polyester, or acrylonitrile or a copolymer thereof with up to 20% of another polymer. Weftwise stretch may be produced by treating the fabric on a Bates cylinder-type setting machine, Fig. 5, provided with additional tensioning bars 11-15 of square section, the tension applied to the fabric 10 being adjustable by swinging the bars 12,13 about an axis 16 by means of a handwheel 17; the fabric then passes over feed rolls 18, 19 and a spreader roll 20 to heated cylinders 21, 22 against which it is pressed by aprons 29, 30; it is then cooled by room temperature air supplied by a blower 33 and wound up on a roll 34. Alternatively, weftwise stretch may be imparted in a stenter, into which the fabric is fed under warpwise tension, the fabric being heated and cooled before allowing it to relax. Warpwise stretch can be imparted by treatment in a pin stenter with high weftwise tension, the fabric being taken in with overfeed just short of the amount that would cause waviness of the selvedges. A fabric may be given a crease-resisting treatment at a first temperature at least 30‹C. below the melting point, followed by one of the above stretch-imparting treatments at a second temperature at least 60‹C. below the melting point; the first and second temperatures may be equal. A durable pleat can be subsequently inserted in a garment made from the fabric at a third, lower, temperature on a Hoffman press.