| 摘要 |
#CMT# #/CMT# Cosmetic and/or dermatological compositions (I) intended for topical application, comprises: insaponifiable fraction of rape oil (Brassica campestris sterols); and mixture of pseudo-ceramides (a) resulting from the oil of raspberry pips, in association or mixture with one or more non-toxic inert excipients or vehicles. #CMT# : #/CMT# Cosmetic and/or dermatological compositions (I) intended for topical application, comprises: insaponifiable fraction of rape oil (Brassica campestris sterols); and mixture of pseudo-ceramides of formula (CH3-(CH2)14-C(=O)-O-CH2-CH(OH)-CH2-NH-C(=O)-R) (a) resulting from the oil of raspberry pips, in association or mixture with one or more non-toxic inert excipients or vehicles. R : alkyl chain of the fatty-acids of the oil of raspberry pips. #CMT#ACTIVITY : #/CMT# Antiinflammatory; Dermatological. #CMT#MECHANISM OF ACTION : #/CMT# Alpha TNF inhibitor; Prostaglandine-2 inhibitor; Inter cellular adhesion molecule-1 inhibitor. The ability of (I) to inhibit prostaglandine-2 was tested in human skin ex vivo. The result showed that sterols of rape oil (at 0.5%) exhibited an inhibition of 77%. #CMT#USE : #/CMT# (I) is useful to reinforce and restore the functional barrier of the skin and to control inflammation (claimed). #CMT#ADVANTAGE : #/CMT# (I) has improved compatibility, improved quality of fats and improved resistance of fats to oxidation. #CMT#ORGANIC CHEMISTRY : #/CMT# Preferred Components: The insaponifiable fraction of rape oil is betasitosterol, campesterol, brassicasterol and/or stigmasterol. Preferred Composition: (I) comprise Brassica campestris sterols at 0.01-75 wt.%; and 25% pseudo ceramides (a) at 100 ppm. (I) contains additional active ingredients comprising magnesium salts, thermal spring water (for its composition, preferably of minerals salts and oligoelements), squalanes of vegetable origin, phytosphingosine, tetra-acetylphytosphingosine, the insaponifiable fractions of plant oils, lecithins (phosphatidylcholines) vegetable or eggs, polydecenes, octyl dodecanol, phosphorylcholine, the copolymers of alkyl metacrylate and of phosphorylcholine, polymers of vinylpyrrolidone, copolymers of polyvinyl pyrrolidone (PVP) and of triacontene, copolymers of PVP and eicosene, Fomblin HC (RTM: Polyperfluoromethylisopropyl ether), dimethicone crosspolymer (silicone elastomer), polysilicone-8 (silicone and dry polymer VS80), or crosspolymer of adipic acid/diethylene glycol/glycerin (Lexorez 100 (RTM: Polyester diol)). #CMT#ADMINISTRATION : #/CMT# Administration of (I) is topical (claimed). #CMT#EXAMPLE : #/CMT# Typical composition comprised (in mass%): cetyl dimethicone copolyol (2.5); hydrogenated polydecene (10); minerai oil, quaternium-18 hectorite and propylene carbonate (5); octyl dodecanol (6); Brassica campestris sterols (0.5); squalane (2); dimethicone (2); butyl hydroxy anisole (0.04); palmitoyl phosphatidylglycerol linolenamide/linoleamide (0.25); water (quantity sufficient to make up to 100); chlorphenesin (0.3); glycerin (3); magnesium sulfate (0.7); butylene glycol (3); O-cymen-5-ol (0.1); and diazolidinyl urea (0.3). |
