| 摘要 |
#CMT# #/CMT# Cosmetic compositions (I) containing an extract of amber as first active ingredient plus other active ingredient(s) selected, e.g. from various plant extracts, magnesium aspartate, peptides, hydrolysed soya bean flour and vegetable glycolipids. #CMT# : #/CMT# Cosmetic compositions (I) containing (a) an extract of amber as first active ingredient and (b) other active ingredient(s) selected from extracts of Bertholletia excelsaor Potentilla erecta, magnesium aspartate, peptides acting on muscular contraction (especially acetyl hexapeptide 8), peptides and their derivatives grafted with fatty acids (especially 16C fatty acids) which promote collagen synthesis (especially palmitoyl oligopeptide pentapeptide 3 or palmitoyl tetrapeptide 7), hydrolysates of soya bean flour and vegetable glycolipids (especially glycosphingolipids from cereals, particularly wheat). #CMT#USE : #/CMT# Amber extracts, especially extracts of Baltic amber, are used as cosmetic agents acting on the dermal supporting proteins and/or on enzyme systems for the degradation of skin proteins and/or essential extracellular matrix components of the glycan type, especially proteoglycans, so as to improve the essential biomechanical properties of the skin (firmness and elasticity), in the preparation of cosmetic compositions, especially those containing active agent(s) selected from extracts of Bertholletia excelsaor Potentilla erecta, magnesium aspartate, peptides acting on muscular contraction (especially acetyl hexapeptide 8), peptides and their derivatives grafted with fatty acids (especially 16C fatty acids) which promote collagen synthesis (especially palmitoyl oligopeptide pentapeptide 3 or palmitoyl tetrapeptide 7), hydrolysates of soya bean flour and vegetable glycolipids (especially glycosphingolipids from wheat) (claimed). Suitable cosmetic compositions include, e.g. skin-strengthening gel, lotion or cream, tensor serum for the lower part of the face and the neckline, film patches and skin-care ampoules. #CMT#ADVANTAGE : #/CMT# The incorporation of amber extract in skin-care preparations improves the firmness of the skin, as shown by the effect of such extracts on the genetic expression of human dermal fibroblasts. #CMT#PHARMACEUTICALS : #/CMT# Preferred Compositions: Compositions (I) in which (a) is obtained by the extraction of Baltic yellow amber with an alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solvent containing 1-5C mono-alcohol(s) and/or 2-5C glycol(s), preferably an ethanol-water mixture containing 40-80% ethanol, or butylene glycol, or a 50/50 butylene glycol/water mixture, or an (80:20)-(60:40) mixture of butylene glycol and ethanol. Preferred (I) contains 0.01-5 wt.% amber extract (a) and 0.01-5 (preferably 0.05-0.8) wt.% glycosphingolipids, preferably derived from wheat. Other possible components include extracts of Rumex crispus, extracts of the rhizome of Glycyrrhiza glabra, optionally glycosylated triterpene derivatives, extracts of Centella asiatica(especially madecassoside, asiaticoside, asiatic acid and/or madecassic acid), DNA hydrolysates (especially those obtained from extracts of fish semen) and/or oxazolidones (especially 4-decyloxazolidin-2-one). The amber extract (a) may be incorporated in a vector system enabling the programmed liberation of the active substance, especially in a lamellar vesicle of the liposome type. #CMT#EXAMPLE : #/CMT# Baltic yellow amber was powdered and extracted with 10 volumes of 60% ethanol/water (v/v), by macerating in the cold for 5 hours and then heating for 8 hours; the mixture was then worked up by centrifuging followed by filtration to give an amber extract (AE1). DMEM medium containing 10 vol.% foetal calf serum (FCS) was inoculated with normal human fibroblasts (NHF; 10 6>cells per 75-ml flask), treated with trypsin solution and cultured (8 flasks). The NHF were then rinsed 3 times with phosphate buffer and incubated for 18 hours in DMEM without the serum. The cells were then treated with 2 vol.% AE1, 2 vol.% butylene glycol or DMEM only (positive reference) and cultured for 4 hours, after which the total RNA was extracted with RNAplus(RTM) and determined with an Agilent 2100 Analyser(RTM). The RNA was amplified by the method described in Biotechniques, 20, 584and quantified by spectophotometry, then 1 micro-g of the amplified RNA (aRNA) was labelled by inverse transcription with the fluorpohores Cy5 (for untreated samples) or Cy3 (for treated samples). These labelled complementary DNA samples (aDNAc)were hybridised on a biopuce ( PIQOR Microarrays(RTM)) specific for the genes expressed in the skin) to show up the genes modulated by AE1 (fluorescence measurements; ScanArrayLite(RTM)). The results showed 60% inhibition of collagenase expression by the NHF, 175% activation of collagen synthesis (collagen I - chain alpha 1), 250% activation for collagen I- chain alpha 2, 221% activation for collagen III, 200% activation for collagen V- chain alpha 1, 220% activation ffor collagen V - chain alpha 2, 210% activation for the expression of dermopontine and activations of 200% and 300% respectively for the expression of biglycan and versican (all compared with 100% for reference samples). An example of a skin-firming lotion comprised 0.1 wt.% AE1, 0.15 wt.% glycosphingolipids ( Wheat cerasomes(RTM)), 0.3 wt.% preservatives and perfume, plus excipient (q.s. 100 wt.%). |
