| 摘要 |
#CMT# #/CMT# A cosmetic exfoliation process involves (1) applying to the skin (a) compound(s) (X) and (b) compound(s) (Y), at least one of which is a silicon compound and both of which can react together by hydrosilylation, condensation or crosslinking in presence of peroxide, and (c) a catalyst or peroxide as appropriate (simultaneously or in any order enabling the reaction of X and Y), (2) spreading and/or massaging until the resulting film is converted into fluff and (3) removing the fluff. #CMT# : #/CMT# An independent claim is also included for an exfoliating kit with two different, separately-packaged compositions, containing abrasive particles, compounds (X) and (Y) and possibly a catalyst or a peroxide (not in the same composition). #CMT#USE : #/CMT# For in-depth cleaning of the skin of the face, neck and/or body, especially to remove dead skin cells and impurities, unblock the pores and improve smoothness, gloss and uniformity of skin color. #CMT#ADVANTAGE : #/CMT# An exfoliation process using compositions which are less irritating than prior-art exfoliants and which can be removed simply by rubbing. These compositions contain smaller amounts of abrasive particles than prior-art compositions (to reduce side-effects) but produce a comparable exfoliative effect. #CMT#ORGANIC CHEMISTRY : #/CMT# Preferred Process: Application of at least one composition containing (X), (Y) and at least one catalyst or peroxide (C/P) if required, preferably by mixing separate compositions containing (X) and (Y) respectively; (X) and (Y) are in distinct compositions, optionally in the same article of packaging. The method involves (i) application of (a) a layer of a composition (C1) containing (X) in a physiologically-acceptable medium (PAM), (b) a layer of a composition (C2) containing (Y) in a PAM, (ii) spreading out the film and massaging and (iii) removing the fluff. Compositions (C1) and/or (C2) are in the form of emulsion(s), preferably simple oil-in-water (O/W), water-in-oil (W/O) or multiple (O/W/O or W/O/W) emulsions. These emulsions contain amphoteric, anionic, cationic or non-ionic emulsifiers (and possibly co-emulsifiers) in amounts of 0.3-30 (preferably 0.5-20) wt.%, and comprise 2-70 (preferably 5-50) wt% oil phase; preferably, both C1 and C2 are emulsions. The film or at least one of the compositions (C1/C2) contains abrasive particles, especially exfoliant particles or mineral rubbing agents, e.g. polyethylene balls or powder, nylon particles, fibres (e.g. polyamide fibres), PVC powder, pumice, milled fruit seed shells (e.g. from apricots or nuts), sawdust, glass balls, alumina, salts and/or sugar crystals. Other possible components include (d) gelling agents, (e) fillers, (f) hydrophilic or lipophilic adjuvants, thickeners or dispersants, especially cationic polymers and (g) catalysts. If components (X) and (Y) undergo a hydrosilylation reaction, (X) is a silicon compound with at least two unsaturated aliphatic groups, especially a polyorganosiloxane with lateral or terminal unsaturated groups attached to silicon and at least one polar group. These polysiloxanes contain siloxane units of formula (I) and (II). R mR'SiO (3-m)/2 (I) R nSiO (4-n)/2 (II) R : 1-30C hydrocarbyl; m : 1 or 2; R 91>2-10C (preferably 3-5C) unsaturated aliphatic hydrocarbyl or 5-8C unsaturated cyclic hydrocarbyl; n : 1, 2 or 3 . In this case, preferred (X) comprises organic or hybrid organic/silicone oligomers or polymers with at least 2 unsaturated aliphatic groups, and (Y) comprises organosiloxanes with at least two Si-H groups, especially compounds with at least one unit of formula (III). R pHSiO (3-p)/2 (III) p= 1 or 2 , preferably at least two units of formula -Si(CH 3)(H)O- and possibly units of formula -Si(CH 3) 2O-. Preferably, (X) is a vinyl-terminated polydimethylsiloxane and (Y) is a methyl-hydrogen-siloxane. The catalyst is a platinum- or tin-based catalyst, present in amounts of 0.0001-20 wt.%. If (X) and (Y) react by condensation, these compounds contain at least two lateral and/or terminal alkoxysilane and/or silanol groups; these compounds are based on units of formula (IV) and (V), with at least two terminal groups of formula (VI). R 9> sSiO (4-s)/2 (IV) (R 9> 2SiO 2) r- (V) -ZSiR 1> xOR (3-x) (VI) R 9>1-6C alkyl, phenyl or fluoroalkyl; s : 0, 1, 2 or 3; f : 2-5000; R (in VI) : methyl, ethyl, n- or iso-propyl, n-, sec.- or iso-butyl; x : 0 or 1, preferably 0; Z : 2-18C saturated hydrocarbylene or siloxane segments of formula -G-[Si(R 9>) 2O] c-Si(R 9>) 2-G-; G : 2-18C saturated hydrocarbylen; c : 1-6 . Preferred condensable polysiloxanes are compounds of formula (VII), titanium-based catalysts are used in amounts of 0.0001-20 wt.% and (X) and (Y) comprise mixtures of polydimethylsiloxanes with methoxysilane groups. For crosslinking in presence of peroxide, (X) has at least one polar group which can form a hydrogen bond with keratinous materials. Generally, (X) and (Y) show wt.-average molecular weights of 150-1000000, preferably 200-250000, and 200-1000000, preferably 500-250000 respectively. Composition C1 contains 0.1-95 (preferably 5-80) wt.% (X) and C2 contains 0.1-95 (preferably 5-80) wt.% (Y), with a mol ratio of (X)/(Y)= 0.05-20, preferably 0.1-10. The process is intended to improve the appearance and/or texture of the skin, reduce surface irregularities and cutaneous micro-relief, promote the action of cleaning and the removal of dead cells on the body surface, promote the elimination of dandruff, overcome the problems of greasy skin and improve the quality of make-up. Preferred Kit: A kit as above comprising a composition (C1) containing (X) and a composition (C2) containing (Y), at least one of which also contains abrasive particles. #CMT#[Image]#/CMT# #CMT#DEFINITIONS : #/CMT# Preferred Definitions: R : 1-10C alkyl or phenyl (in X), or 1-10C alkyl, preferably methyl (in Y); R 9> 1>vinyl . #CMT#EXAMPLE : #/CMT# A facial exfoliant composition comprising (A1) an emulsion made by mixing (A) 2 wt.% Arlacel 165 FL (RTM: glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate), 1.5 wt.% Cosmacol PSE (RTM: dimyristyl tartrate, cetearyl alcohol, 12-15C pareth-7 and PPG-25 laureth-25), 10 wt.% cyclohexasiloxane, 1 wt.% stearyl alcohol, and 10 wt.% mixture (X) with (B) 4 wt.% Utexbel polyamide pulp 12185 (RTM: polyamide 66), 10 wt.% pumice, 0.4 wt.% Hostacerin AMPS (RTM: ammonium polyacryloyl-dimethyl-taurate), 1 wt.% phenoxyethanol, 0.05 wt.% EDTA, 0.2 wt.% xanthan gum and water (q.s. 100 wt.%), and (B1) an emulsion similar to (A1) but with 10 wt.% mixture (Y) instead of (X). Mixture (X) comprised 55-95 wt.% dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated polydimethylsiloxane (X1), 10-40 wt.% silylated silica (X2), 0.1-1 wt.% tetramethyldivinyldisiloxane and a trace of 1,3-divinyl-1,1,3,3-tetramethyldisiloxane complex (catalyst). Mixture (Y) comprised 55-95 wt.% (X1), 10-40 wt.% (X2) and 1-10 wt.% trimethylsiloxy-terminated polydimethyl-methylhydrogen-siloxane. (A1) and (B1) were mixed in equivalent proportions, applied to the face and then spread out by massaging until the product was converted into solid residues or fluff which were removed simply by rubbing. |
