Cosmetic/dermatological composition useful e.g. as a skin care, make-up, solar protection or hair care product, comprises an organic lipophilic UV filter and phytantriol in the form of cubic gel particles

摘要

#CMT# #/CMT# Cosmetic/dermatological composition containing an oil-in-water emulsion made of oily globules of average diameter 1 mu m, provided with a lamellar liquid crystal dispersed in an aqueous phase, comprises an organic lipophilic UV filter and phytantriol in the form of cubic gel particles. Each of the oily globules is uniformly coated by a mono- or oligolamellar layer obtained from a lipophilic surfactant having a hydrophilic lipophilic balance (HLB) of 2-5, a hydrophilic surfactant having a HLB of 8-12 and a fatty acid and/or ionic surfactant. The aqueous phase contains a dissolved basic agent. #CMT#USE : #/CMT# The composition is useful as a skin care, makeup, solar protection or hair care product for the treatment of skin, eyelashes, eyebrows, hair, scalp, nails and mucous membranes. The phytantriol in the form of cubic gel particles in the composition is useful to increase the sun protection factor (SPF) and UVA-persistent pigment darkening protection index (claimed). #CMT#ADVANTAGE : #/CMT# The composition exhibits increased sun protection factor (SPF) and UVA-persistent pigment darkening protection index (claimed). #CMT#ORGANIC CHEMISTRY : #/CMT# Preferred Components: The coated oily globules have an average diameter less than 800 nm, particularly less than 500 nm. The lipophilic surfactant, the hydrophilic surfactant and fatty acid contain a saturated fatty acid chain with more than 12 carbon atoms, preferably 15-21 carbon atoms. The lipophilic surfactants are sucrose distearate, diglyceryl distearate, tetraglyceryl tristearate, decaglyceryl decastearate, diglycerol monostearate, hexaglyceryl tristearate, decaglyceryl pentastearate, sorbitan monostearate, sorbitan tristearate, glycol diethylene monostearate, ester of glycerol and palmitic/stearic acid, polyoxyethylene monostearate (comprising 2 oxyethylene (OE) groups), glyceryl mono and dibehenate or pentaerythrytol tetrastearate. The hydrophilic surfactants are sorbitan polyoxyethylene tristearate (containing 20 OE groups), polyoxyethylene monostearate (containing 8 OE groups), hexaglyceryl monostearate, polyoxyethylene monostearate (containing 10 OE groups) and polyoxyethylene distearate (containing 12 OE groups) or methylglucose polyoxyethylene distearate (containing 20 OE groups). The saturated fatty acid is palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid or behenic acid. The ionic surfactants are neutralized anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants and alkylsulfonic derivatives. The amphoteric surfactants are phospholipids, particularly phosphatidylethanolamine of pure soybean. The neutralized anionic surfactants are: dicetylphosphate alkali salts, dimyristylphosphate alkali salts, preferably sodium and potassium salts; the alkali salts of cholesterol sulfate, particularly sodium salt; alkali salts of cholesterol phosphate, particularly sodium salt; disodium salt and monosodium salts of acylglutamic acid, preferably monosodium and disodium salts of N-stearoyl glutamic acid; sodium salt of phosphatidic acid; or alkylsulfonic derivatives. The total quantity of surfactants in the composition is 2-6 wt.%, preferably 3-4 wt.%. The relative quantities of lipophilic surfactant, hydrophilic surfactant and fatty acid and/or ionic surfactant is 35-55 wt.%/25-40 wt.%/15-35 wt.% compared to the total weight of all the surfactants. The weight ratio of oily globules with coated elements is 2-13, preferably 7. The cubic gel particles containing phytantriol are in aqueous dispersion. The particles of cubic gel are formed by a mixture containing: 3,7,11,15-tetramethyl-1,2,3-hexadecanetriol or phytantriol, optionally associated with a N-methylglucamine N-2-alkoxycarbonyl derivative and/or a unsaturated fatty acid monoglyceride (0.1-15 wt.%); and a stabilizing agent and dispersing agent such as surfactants water-soluble in ambient temperature, containing a fatty chain of 8-22 carbon atoms (0.05-3 wt.%), where the weight ratio between the two components is 2-200. The N-methylglucamine-N-2-alcoxycarbonyl derivative is of formula R1-O-CO-N(CH3)-CH2-(CHOH)4-CH2OH. The alkylsulfonic derivatives are of formula R-CH(SO3M)-CO-O-(CH2CH2O)2-CH3. The N-methylglucamine-N-2-alkoxycarbonyl derivative is N-2-hexyldecyloxycarbonyl-N-methyl-glucamine, N-2-ethylhexyloxycarbonyl-N-methyl-glucamine or N-2-butyloctyloxycarbonyl-N-methyl-glucamine. The cubic gel particles comprise a mixture of phytantriol at 1-50 wt.% and N-2-alkoxycarbonyl-N-methyl-glucamine derivative at 50-99 wt.%. The monoglyceride of unsaturated fatty acid is glyceryl monooleate and glyceryl monolinoleate. The dispersing and stabilizing agent is: alkyl/alkenyl polyol ethers/esters; N-acyl amino acids or their derivatives and alkyl or alkenyl N-acyl peptides, and their salts; alkyl or alkenyl ethers or ester sulfate, their derivatives and salts; alkyl or alkenyl ethers and esters of fatty polyoxyethylenes; alkyl or alkenyl carboxylic acid polyoxyethylenes and their salts; N-alkyl or alkenyl betains; and/or alkyl/alkenyl trimethylammonium and their salts. The cubic gel particles have a size of 0.05-1 mu m. The dispersion of cubic gel particles also comprises at least a water-insoluble ionic amphiphilic lipid. The water-insoluble ionic amphiphilic lipid is phospholipids, phosphoric esters of fatty acid, N-acyl derivative of water-insoluble glutamic acid and their salts, sodium cetylsulfate, sodium cocoyl monoglyceride sulfate, and water-insoluble quaternary ammonium derivatives. The particles comprise a hydrophilic or lipophilic active principle. The cubic gel particles are present at 0.1-20 wt.%. The lipophilic UV filters are anthranilates, cinnamic derives, dibenzoylmethane derivatives, salicylic derivatives, camphor derivatives, triazine derivatives, benzophenone derivatives, beta ,beta -diphenylacrylate derivatives, benzotriazole derivatives, benzalmalonate derivatives, benzimidazole derivatives, imidazolines, para amino benzoic acid derivatives, benzoxazole derivatives, polymer and silicone filters, alpha -alkylstyrene dimer derivatives or 4,4-diarylbutadienes, such as homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, ehylhexyl methoxycinnamate, octocrylene, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl triazone, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, drometrizole trisiloxane (all preferred), benzophenone-3, n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)-benzoate, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, 2,4,6-tris(4'-amino dineopentyl benzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4,6-tris-(4'-amino diisobutyl benzalmalonate) -s-triazine, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, polysilicone 15, di-neopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate, 1,1-dicarboxy-(2'2'-dimethyl-propyl)-4,4 -diphenylbutadiene or 2,4-bis-[5-1(dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)-imino]-6- (2-ethylhexyl)-imino-1,3,5-triazine. The lipophilic filters are present at 0.1-30 wt.%, preferably 0.5-15 wt.%. The insoluble UV filter is methylene bis benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol in the solid or micronized form in aqueous dispersion. The pigments are optionally coated metallic oxides such as oxides of titanium, iron, zinc, zirconium or cerium. R : C16H33 and/or C18H37; M : alkali metal, preferably sodium; and R16-18C alkyl. #CMT#PHARMACEUTICALS : #/CMT# Preferred Composition: The composition comprises organic UV filters active in UVA and/or UVB, being hydrophilic or insoluble in commonly used cosmetic solvents, e.g. terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, benzophenone-4, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid and/or disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetra-sulfonate, or methylene bis (hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) derivatives. The composition further comprises several complementary inorganic UV filter such as pigments. The composition contains additives amphiphilic organic solvents, active agents, salts, softening agents, humectants, opacifying agents, stabilizing agents, emollients, silicones, anti-foaming agents, perfumes, preservatives, fillers, polymers, propellants or alkalizing/acidifying agents. #CMT#EXAMPLE : #/CMT# Typical composition comprised (in %): water (to make up to 100); glycerin (7); preservatives (1.3); EDTA (0.2); sucrose tristearate (2); polysorbate 61 (1); sodium stearoyl glutoamate (0.75); cyclohexasiloxane (1.7); diisopropyl sebacate (2.7); isononyl isonanoate (5.6); isocethylstearate (2.5); squalane (1); octocrylene (7); butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane (3); ethylhexyl salicylate (5); carbomer (0.3); triethanolamine (0.3); xanthan gum (0.2); dimethicone an dimethiconol (2); phytantriol cubic gel (10); polyethylene glycol-12 dimethicone (0.5); and fillers.