| 摘要 |
FIELD: sewing industry. SUBSTANCE: method involves measuring figure's size features; analyzing graphical image of trousers model to be plotted, said analysis involving measuring width at the levels of semi-perimeter of thighs, perimeter of thigh and knee; transferring linear measurements to full-scale values by means of one of known methods; calculating from mathematical equations At, which is allowance for measurement feature of semi-perimeter of thighs with abdomen protrusion extent being taken into account, At = aWtm±a1, were Wtm- is full scale value of design width of trousers at thighs semi-perimeter level, width of pace of trousers in drawing, Wp = bWper±b1, were Wper- is full-scale value of design width of trousers at thigh perimeter level, allowance for measurement feature of knee perimeter Akper = cWkper±c1, were Wkper is full-scale value of design width of trousers at knee perimeter level, a, a1, b, b1, c, c1 are coefficients set for various types of figures and kinds of materials for trousers; selecting other values of design allowances; plotting basis grid; finding coordinates of auxiliary points and drawing silhouette lines of front and rear parts bases. EFFECT: provision for maximal correspondence of patterns obtained to shape of designed trousers and increased productive capacity of pattern maker-designer. 3 dwg, 1 tbl |
