| 摘要 |
The present invention relates to a method of manufacturing an all-fiber polyester cloth that is elastic, the cloth having a certain proportion of two-component polyester fibers of side-by-side structure suitable for developing helical and spiral crimp. The method comprises the operations of preparing the fiber mixture, spinning, weaving, and applying various treatments to the cloth. The operations of preparing and spinning lead to a non-extensible thread and the weaving is highly decompacted so as to take account of its potential elasticity, the loomstate cloth being subjected to heat pre-treatment in hot air at a temperature lying in the range 180° C. to 190° C. under very low tension, prior to performing any conventional treatment in a liquid medium, and in particular washing and dyeing; in addition during all operations subsequent to the heat pre-treatment, tension on the cloth is limited. For example, the dry heat pre-treatment consists in passing through a stenter for a duration of 1 min to 1.5 min approx., at a temperature of about 185° C. An approximately 50/50 polyester/wool mixture in which all of the polyester fibers are of side-by-side structure, the passage through the stenter takes place with a stenter advance of about 15% and a stenter outlet width adjustment of about 9% smaller than the width of the loomstate cloth.
|
