| 摘要 |
<p>#CMT# #/CMT# Composition for cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, preferably human keratin fibers such as hair, comprises, in a medium: one or more cationic polymers obtained by polymerization of a mixture of monomers comprising one or more vinyl monomers substituted by amino groups, one or more hydrophobic non-ionic vinyl monomers and one or more associative vinyl monomers; one or more liquid fatty esters; and one or more cationic or amphoteric polymers different from the above cationic polymers. #CMT# : #/CMT# An independent claim is included for a process for treating keratin material comprising applying the composition on keratin material and then carrying out optional rinsing with water after an exposure time. #CMT#USE : #/CMT# The composition is useful: for cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, preferably human keratin fibers such as hair; for washing or care of keratin materials; as after-shampoo composition; as a foaming detergent composition such as shampoo, shower gels, make-up removing product and foaming bath; and as permanent waving-, uncurling-, coloring- or discoloring- composition. The cationic polymer is useful for the fabrication of cosmetic composition (all claimed). #CMT#ADVANTAGE : #/CMT# The composition: is stable; has good rheological and cosmetic properties, and good foaming qualities; and provides softness, shininess and flexibility to the hair thus improving its easy combing. #CMT#ORGANIC CHEMISTRY : #/CMT# Preferred Composition: The composition further comprises: one or more silicones (0.001-20, preferably 0.01-10 wt.%); beneficial agents (0.001-20, preferably 0.01-10 wt.%) for keratin materials comprising solid fatty esters, 1-30C carboxylic acids, 1-30C mono or polyhydroxylated alcohols, oils of vegetable, animal, mineral or synthetic, waxes, ceramides and pseudoceramides; surfactants (0.01-50, preferably 0.5-30 wt.%) comprising anionic, cationic, non-ionic and/or amphoteric surfactants; additives comprising thickeners, antidandruff agent or antiseborrheic agent, perfumes, pearling agents, hydroxyacids, electrolytes, preservatives, optionally siliconized sunscreen, vitamins, provitamins such as panthenol, anionic or non-ionic polymers, proteins, hydrolysate proteins, 18-methyl eicosanoic acid, fluorinated or perfluorinated oils, fatty amines, fatty acids and their derivatives, and/or fatty alcohols and their derivatives. Preferred Components: The liquid fatty esters (0.01-25, preferably 0.05-10 wt.%) are 12-26C linear carboxylic acid esters and 3-12C branched alcohol, 2-12C linear carboxylic acid esters and 8-26C branched alcohol, 8-26C, preferably 8-12C branched carboxylic acid esters and 8-26C, preferably 8-12C branched alcohol, and 7-30C aromatic acid ester of which the carboxylic acid function is directly connected to aromatic cycle and 1-30C alcohol. The ester is isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, branched alkyl myristate such as myristate of isopropyl, t-butyl and 2-octyldodecyl, hexyl isostearate, butyl isostearate, isobutyl stearate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isononyl isononanate (all preferred), octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, isocetyl lactate, isostearyl lactate, linoleyl lactate, oleyl lactate, isostearyl octanoate, isocetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, isocetyl isostearate, isocetyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl octanoate, isodecyl oleate, 2-ethylhexyl isononate, octyl isostearate, isostearyl palmitate, myristyl isostearate, octyl isononanate, octyldodecyl erucate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, diisostearyl adipate, octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, triisopropyl citrate, triisotearyl citrate, trioctyldodecyl citrate, isostearyl neopentanoate, tridecyl neopentanoate and 12-15C alkyl benzoate, preferably isostearyl benzoate, octyldodecyl benzoate, behenyl benzoate and 2-ethylhexyl benzoate. #CMT#POLYMERS : #/CMT# Preferred Components: The vinyl monomers are: present at 10-70, preferably 20-50 wt.%; mono- or di-(1-4C)alkylamino(1-8C alkyl) (meth)acrylates, preferably di(1-4C alkyl)alkylamino(1-6C alkyl) (meth)acrylates, mono- or di-(1-4C alkyl) amino(1-8C alkyl)-(meth)acrylamide and/or (meth)acrylamides or (meth)acrylates with heterocyclic group containing a nitrogen atom; mono- or di-(1-4C)alkylamino(1-4C alkyl) (meth)acrylates such as 2-(N,N-dimethylamino)ethyl (meth)acrylates, 3-(N,N-dimethylamino)propyl (meth)acrylates, 4-(N,N-dimethylamino)butyl (meth)acrylates, (N,N-dimethylamino)-t-butyl (meth)acrylates, 2-(N,N-diethylamino)ethyl (meth)acrylates, 3-(N,N-diethylamino)propyl (meth)acrylates, 4-(N,N-diethylamino)butyl (meth)acrylates, 2-(N,N-dipropylamino) ethyl (meth)acrylates, 3-(N,N-dipropylamino) propyl (meth)acrylates and 4-(N,N-dipropylamino)butyl (meth)acrylates, mono- or di-(1-4C)alkylamino(1-4C alkyl) (meth)acrylamides such as N'-(2-N,N-dimethylamino)ethyl (meth)acrylamide and N'-(3-N,N-dimethylamino) propyl acrylamide, (meth)acrylamides or (meth)acrylates with heterocyclic group containing a nitrogen atom such as N-(2-pyridyl)acrylamide, N-(2-imidazolyl)methacrylamide, 2-(4-morpholinyl) ethyl (meth)acrylates, N-(4-morpholinyl) (meth) acrylamide and nitrogen heterocycles with vinyl groups such as 2-vinylpyridine and 4-vinylpyridine. The hydrophobic non-ionic vinyl monomers are of formula (CH 2=C(X)Z) (I) or (CH 2=CH-OC(O)R) (II). The hydrophobic non-ionic vinyl monomers (20-80, preferably 50-65 wt.%) are 1-30C alkyl (meth)acrylates, 1-30C alkyl (meth)acrylamides, styrene, substituted styrenes, vinyl esters, unsaturated nitriles and unsaturated silanes. The associative vinyl monomers are of formula (R 2>CH=C(R 2>)-A-(CH 2) k-(O) m-(R 4>-O) n-Y 1>-R 5>). The associative vinyl monomers (0.001-25, preferably 0.1-10 wt.%) are cetyl polyethoxylated (meth)acrylates, cetearyl polyethoxylated (meth)acrylates, stearyl polyethoxylated (meth)acrylates, arachidyl polyethoxylated (meth)acrylates, behenyl polyethoxylated (meth)acrylates, lauryl polyethoxylated (meth)acrylates, cerotyl polyethoxylated (meth)acrylates, montanyl polyethoxylated (meth)acrylates, melissyl polyethoxylated (meth)acrylates, lacceryl polyethoxylated (meth)acrylates, 2,4,6-tri(1-phenylethyl)phenyl polyethoxylated (meth)acrylates, hydrogenated castor oil polyethoxylated (meth)acrylates, canola polyethoxylated (meth)acrylates, and/or cholesterol polyethoxylated (meth)acrylates, where the polyethoxylated portion of the monomer comprises 5-100, preferably 15-60 ethylene oxide units. The mixture of monomers comprises: one or more semi-hydrophobic vinyl surfactant monomers (0.01-25, preferably 0.1-10 wt.%) comprising a substituted vinyl compound of formula (R 6>CH=C(R 6>)-A-(CH 2) p-(O) r-(R 8>-O) v-R 9>) or (D 1>-A-(CH 2) p-(O) r-(R 8>-O) v-R 9>) and (CH 2=CH-O(CH 2) aO(C 3H 6O) b(C 2H 4O) cH) or (CH 2=CHCH 2O(C 3H 6O) d(C 2H 4O) eH); hydrophobic non-ionic vinyl monomers (20-70 wt.%), associative vinyl monomers (0.001-15 wt.%), hydroxylated non-ionic vinyl monomers (0-10, preferably 0.01-10 wt.%) comprising hydroxy(1-6C alkyl)methacrylate and/or hydroxy(1-4C alkyl)methacrylamide, preferably 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate, crosslinking monomers (0.001-5, preferably 0.05-2 wt.%), chain transfer agents (0.001-10, preferably 0-10 wt.%) and polymeric stabilizers (0-2 wt.%); and di(1-4C alkyl)amino(1-6C alkyl) methacrylate, 1-30C alkyl esters and methacrylic acid, one or more 10-30C polyethoxylated alkyl methacrylate with 20-30 moles of ethylene oxide, allyl ether of polyethylene glycol/polypropylene glycol 30/5, hydroxy(2-6C alkyl)methacrylate and ethylene glycol dimethacrylate. The crosslinking monomers are polyol acrylate ester having at least two acrylate ester groups and/or polyol methacrylate ester having at least two methacrylate ester groups. The cationic polymer (0.001-10, preferably 0.01-3 wt.%) is quaternary cellulose ether derivatives, cyclopolymer, preferably homopolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salts and copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salt and acrylamide, cationic polysaccharides, homopolymers and copolymers optionally crosslinked of (meth)acryloyloxy ethyl trimethylammonium salt and quaternary copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl imidazole salt. X : H or CH 3; Z : -C(O)OR 1>, -C(O)NH 2, -C(O)NHR 1>, -C(O)N(R 1>) 2, C 6H 5, C 6H 4R 1>, C 6H 4OR 1>, C 6H 4Cl, CN, NHC(O)CH 3, NHC(O)H, N-(2-pyrrolidonyl), N-caprolactamyl, -C(O)NHC(CH 3) 3, -C(O)NHCH 2CH 2-NH-CH 2CH 2-urea, -SiR 3, -C(O)O(CH 2) xSiR 3, -C(O)NH(CH 2) xSiR 3or -(CH 2) xSiR 3; x : 1-6; R : 1-30C alkyl; R 1>1-30C alkyl, 2-30C hydroxylated alkyl or 1-30C halogenated alkyl; R 2>H, CH 3, -C(O)OH or -C(O)OR 3>; R 3>1-30C alkyl; A : -CH 2C(O)O-, -C(O)O-, -O-, CH 2O, -NHC(O)NH-, -C(O)NH-, -Ar-(CE 2) 2-NHC(O)O-, -Ar-(CE 2) z, -NHC(O)NH- or -CH 2CH 2-NHC(O)-; Ar : divalent aryl; E : H or CH 3; z, r : 0 or 1; k : 0-30; m : 0 or 1; (R 4>-O) n, (R 8>-O) vpolyoxyalkylene, which is homopolymer, random copolymer or block copolymer with 2-4C oxyalkylene units (where the alkyl group comprises optionally one or more substituents comprising OH, alkoxyl or halo); R 4>, R 8>C 2H 4, C 3H 6or C 4H 8; n, v : 5-250; Y 1>-R 4>O-, -R 4>NH-, -C(O)-, -C(O)NH-, R 4>NHC(O)NH- or -C(O)NHC(O)-; R 5>optionally substituted alkyl comprising 8-40C linear alkyl, 8-40C branched alkyl, 8-40C alicyclic, phenyl substituted by 2-40C alkyl, 2-40C alkyl substituted by aryl or 8-80C ester complexes; R 6>H, 1-30C alkyl, -C(O)OH or C(O)OR 7>; R 7>1-30C alkyl; p : 0-30; R 9>H or 1-4C alkyl; D 1>8-30C alkenyl or 8-30C alkenyl substituted by carboxy group; a : 2-4; b, d : 1-10; and c, e : 5-50 Provided that when: k and p are 0, then m and r are 0; and k and p are 1-30, then m and r are 1. #CMT#EXAMPLE : #/CMT# Typical composition comprised: copolymer of (meth)acrylic acid esters, 1-4C dialkylamino-1-6C alkyl methacrylate, polyethylene glycol (PEG)/polypropylene glycol (PPG)-30/5 allyl ether, methacrylate of PEG 20-25 10-30C alky</p> |
