| 摘要 |
1532467 Finishing fabrics L PAYEN & CIE 13 April 1976 [14 April 1975] 15142/76 Heading D1S A three-dimensional elastic textile article is manufactured from a woven fabric including an elastofibre yarn of an elastane or an elastodiene yarn, by tensioning the fabric in both warp and weft directions, the tensioning force applied in each direction being close to, but less than, the breaking tension in that direction; heating at least a portion of the fabric while in a stretched condition, in a differential manner, with heat varying in amount progressively from the centre to the periphery of the fabric with a maximum amount of heat being applied in the area where the least elasticity is desired and the minimum amount of heat being applied in the area where the greatest elasticity is desired; and terminating the tensioning forces and heating applied to the fabric to obtain the desired three dimensional article. Preferably, the elasticity of the fabric is substantially the same in each of the two directions in which it is tensioned. Heating is carried out by contact with a source of heat, e.g. a domestic iron, by radiation from an infra-red source, or by a source of high frequency or ultra-high frequency. Before shaping, the elasticity of the fabric may be developed by heat or the fabric may be used as it comes off the weaving or warp-knitting loom. Tensioning of the fabric in the two main directions may be effected by a frame having fabric-holding pins and adjustable in these diretcions or by feed rollers stretching the fabric longitudinally as it is stretched laterally by a tenter pin frame. In Ex. 1, taffeta-weave fabric comprises in both the warp and weft a lapped yarn having a spandex core and a polyamide lapping. Whilst the fabric is stretched, four concentric circles spaced at 10 centimetre intervals are traced on the fabric. Differential amounts of heat are applied to each circular zone with a maximum amount to the smallest diameter zone and a minimum amount to the largest diameter zone to form a cup. In Ex. 2, the process of Ex. 1 is repeated but tracing 10 concentric zones spaced at intervals of 10 centimetres. The invention is applicable to the manufacture of brassiere cups and of umbrella shells. |
