| 摘要 |
#CMT# #/CMT# A method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibres, especially human hair, involves (a) treatment of the hair and (b) application of an anhydrous cosmetic composition (I) with a water content of less than 10 wt% in the form of a water-soluble film containing water-soluble- or -dispersible film-forming polymer(s) with a water-solubility of at least 0.1 g/l at 25[deg]C (II) plus conditioning agent(s), followed by contact of the treated fibres with an aqueous liquid or a fluid containing water vapor (III). #CMT# : #/CMT# An independent claim is also included for a multi-compartment device or a kit comprising a compartment (A) containing aqueous liquid and a compartment (B) containing the film composition (I). #CMT#USE : #/CMT# For the treatment of keratinous fibres, especially e.g. human hair, e.g. for bleaching, dyeing, permanent waving, conditioning, styling, control and general care treatments. #CMT#ADVANTAGE : #/CMT# Enables the application of successive treatments to hair without altering the cosmetic effects obtained by the preceding treatment, so as to confer additional properties or to reinforce those already applied. Prior-art methods generally lead to oheavinesso of the hair. #CMT#POLYMERS : #/CMT# Preferred Materials: The fluid (III) comprises water vapor and possibly liquid water, or also cosmetically-acceptable solvent(s), preferably only water vapor; the aqueous liquid (III) is water. The composition (I) has a water content of less than 5 (preferably less than 1) wt%; the film (of (I)) has a thickness of 10-1000 (preferably 50-300) microns and has no water-insoluble supporting layer. Polymers (II) comprise protein-type polymers, polymers derived from chitin or chitosan, polysaccharides, acrylic (co)polymers, vinyl polymers, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone or caprolactam and their mixtures, preferably cellulose polymers, starches and their derivatives. These are present in (I) in amounts of 0.5-99 (preferably 60-90) wt%. Preferred conditioning agents are quat. ammonium salts, aminated silicones, non-cellulosic cationic polymers, vegetable oils, ceramides and fatty esters. Suitable quat. salts comprise compounds of formula [R 8R 9R 10R 11] +> X -> (1), quat. imidazoline salts, compounds of formula [R 16R 17R 18N-(CH 2) 3-NR 19R 20R 21] ++> 2X -> (11) and quat. salts with ester function(s), in which R 8-R 11a 1-30C aliphatic group or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl; X (in 1) : halide, phosphate, acetate, 2-6C alkyl sulfate, alkyl-sulfonate or alkylaryl-sulfonate; R 16a 16-30C aliphatic group; R 17-R 21H or 1-4C alkyl; X (in 11) : halide, acetate, phosphate, nitrate or methyl-sulfate , preferably ester-quats. of formula (IV), in which R 221-6C alkyl, hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl; R 23R 26-CO-, optionally unsaturated 1-22C hydrocarbyl (R 27) or H; R 25R 28-CO-, optionally unsaturated 1-6C hydrocarbyl (R 29) or H; R 24, R 26, R 28optionally unsaturated 7-21C hydrocarbyl; r, s, t : 2-6; y : 1-10; x, z : 0-10; (x+y+z) : 1-15; when x : 0, R 23= R 27; when z : 0, R 25= R 29 . Aminated silicones comprise (a) compounds of formula (V), in which T : H, phenyl, hydroxyl or 1-8C alkyl (preferably methyl); a : 0 or 1-3, preferably 0; b : 0 or 1, preferably 1; (n+m) : 1-2000, preferably 50-150; n : 0-1999, preferably 49-149; m : 1-2000, preferably 1-10; R 1>-C qH 2qL; q : 2-8; L : possibly quaternised -NR 2>-CH 2CH 2N(R 2>) 2, -N(R 2>) 2, -N +>(R 2>) 3 Q ->, -N +>(R 2>)(H) Q ->, -N +>(R 2>) 2H Q -> or -NR 2>-CH 2CH 2-N +>(R 2>)(H) 2 Q ->; R 2>H, phenyl, benzyl or saturated hydrocarbyl, e.g. 1-20C alkyl; Q : halide, e.g. F, Cl, Br or I ; or (b) silicones of formula (VIII), in which R 3>1-18C hydrocarbyl, preferably 1-18C alkyl or 2-18C alkenyl, e.g. methyl; R 4>hydrocarbylene, especially 1-18C (e.g. 1-8C) alkylene or oxyalkylene; Q : halide, especially Cl; r : 2-20, preferably 2-8 (statistical average); s : 20-200, preferably 20-50 ; or (c) quat. compounds of formula (XII), in which R 71-18C hydrocarbyl (preferably 1-18C alkyl or 2-18C alkenyl), or a 5-6C carbocycle; R 6hydrocarbylene, preferably 1-18C alkylene or oxyalkylene; R 8= 1-18C hydrocarbyl (preferably 1-18C alkyl or 2-18C alkenyl) or -R 6-NHCOR 7; X : an anion, e.g. halide or an organic acid anion; r : 2-200, preferably 5-100 . Suitable ceramides are compounds of formula (XIII), in which R 1optionally unsaturated 9-30C hydrocarbyl (optionally substituted with hydroxyl which may be esterified with a 16-30C optionally unsaturated fatty acid) or a radical of formula Ro-(NR-CO)-R'-; R : H or 1-10C mono- or poly-hydroxyhydrocarbyl (preferably monohydroxy); R', Ro : hydrocarbyl with a total of 9-30 carbon atoms, R' being divalent; R 2H, (glycosyl) n, (galactosyl) m or sulfogalactosyl; n : 1-4; m : 1-8; R 3H, optionally unsaturated 16-27C hydrocarbyl (optionally substituted with 1-14C alkyl group(s)) or 15-26C alpha-hydroxyalkyl (optionally esterified with a 16-30C alpha-hydroxy-acid); R 4H, optionally unsaturated 16-27C hydrocarbyl or -CH 2CHOH-CH 2-OR 6; R 610-26C hydrocarbyl; R 5H, or mono- or poly-hydroxylated 1-4C hydrocarbyl . Preferred ceramides are N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, the corresponding N-oleoyl, N-palmitoyl, N-stearoyl, N-behenoyl and N-(2-hydroxypalmitoyl) derivatives, and N-stearoylphytosphingosine. Thirty-eight vegetable oils are listed, including e.g. almond oil, linseed oil, palm oil, olive oil, corn oil and essential oils. Non-cellulosic cationic polymers comprise homo- and co-polymers of dimethyldiallyl-ammonium halides, quat. polyammonium polymers, vinylpyrrolidone copolymers with cationic units and polyamidoamines. Fatty esters comprise ethyl, isopropyl, 2-ethylhexyl and 2-octyldecyl palmitate, isopropyl, butyl, cetyl and 2-octyldecyl myristate, butyl and hexyl stearate, hexyl and 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and dioctyl maleate or isononanoate. The amount of such conditioning agents in (I) is 0.1-99.5 (preferably 0.5-15) wt%. (I) may also also contain (a) 0.5-40 (preferably 0.5-15) wt% plasticiser(s), preferably glycerol, sorbitol, mono- and/or di-saccharides, butylene or pentylene glycol and/or polyethylene glycol. Preferred Method: The fluid is at a temperature of more than 35 (preferably 45-150[deg]C and the contact time with fibres and film is 1-120 (preferably 10-30) minutes. Contact with (III) and application of (I) may be simultaneous or sequential. Stage (a) involves coloration or decoloration, fixation and/or styling, permanent waving, straightening, hair care or washing. There may also be a pause of 10 seconds to 1 hour (preferably 1-15 minutes) between stages (a) and (b). (I) is applied immediately after stage (a), possibly with a fixing time, and also after rinsing the treated fibres. Preferred Device: A device or kit as above with a third compartment containing at least one second film composition containing a film-forming polymer as above and different conditionig agent(s). #CMT#[Image]#/CMT# #CMT#[Image]#/CMT# #CMT#[Image]#/CMT# #CMT#[Image]#/CMT# #CMT#[Image]#/CMT# #CMT#DEFINITIONS : #/CMT# Preferred Definitions: R 2 2methyl or ethyl; x, y : 1; z : 0 or 1; r, s, t : 2; R 2 3R 2 6-CO-, methyl, ethyl, 14-22C hydrocarbyl or H; R 2 5R 2 8-CO- or H; R 2 4, R 2 6, R 2 8optionally unsaturated 13-17C hydrocarbyl, preferably 13-17C alkyl or alkenyl; in (XIII), R 1optionally unsaturated alkyl derived from 16-22C fatty acid (optionally hydroxylated); R 2H; R 3an optionally hydroxylated, linear, saturated 15C group . #CMT#EXAMPLE : #/CMT# A mixture of 38.5 wt% Amaze (RTM: modified starch), 55 wt% PVP K-90 (RTM: polyvinylpyrrolidone), 5 wt% propylene glycol, 0.5 wt% Dehyquart A OR (RTM: cetyltrimethyl-ammonium chloride; 25% solution), 0.5 wt% Merquat 100 (RTM: polyquaternium-6; 40% solution), 0.2 wt% citric acid and 0.3 wt% Polysorbate 20 (RTM) was dissolved in water, cast on a siliconised support and rapidly dried in a current of air at 80[deg]C, to give a film of thickness ca. 0.1 mm which was separated from the support and cut into units (15 x 15 cm). Natural hair which had been permanent-waved, rinsed and wrung dry was carefully wrapped in the film and treated for 10 minutes with water vapor from a diffuser at a temperature of 45[deg]C, causing the film to melt into the hair. The hair was then washed and dried. When evaluated on a scale of 0-5 for 6 test persons, the treated hair gave ratings of 4 (2), 5 (3) and 5 (3) for softness, outline of curls and tone of curls respectively. Values in brackets are for hair which was not treated with the film. |
