Method and apparatus for contoured folding and hemming of fabric parts, such as pocket plies

摘要

Method and apparatus is disclosed for the automated forming and hemming of pocket plies or like parts provided with a contoured top flap. Individual pocket plies are picked from a stack and positioned on a plate provided with V-contoured forward end edge. A clamping die clamps the ply to the plate and conforms a projecting hem-forming margin to the V-contoured (or other shaped) forward edge. A transfer mechanism completes the hem fold and, by the use of a transfer clamp, engages the folded hem area. After the clamping die is opened, the transfer clamp removes the ply and conveys it to a sewing station, while forming the top fold of the pocket ply. The top fold is completed as the transfer mechanism places the ply on the surface of the sewing table and transfers it to the control of a controllably movable sewing clamp. After retraction of the transfer mechanism, the movable sewing clamp advances the folded ply relative to a sewing needle, for sewing of the folded, V-contoured hem to the body of the pocket ply, simultaneously completing the hem and the "V" pocket flap. Special clamping devices enable the pocket ply to be gripped by one clamp before being released by the other to maintain positive control over the part.